Maya is a tech enthusiast and home automation specialist with over a decade of experience in smart home integration and design.
Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.
This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.
“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.
However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.
Maya is a tech enthusiast and home automation specialist with over a decade of experience in smart home integration and design.